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alibotean
10th April 2008, 00:24
Am observat ca pe fata la roti/in mijlocul jentii aveam ceva ce parea un antifurt :) am vb azi cu fostul proprietar si mi-a spus ca de fapt de acolo se blocheaza diferentialul fata. Are 2 pozitii AUTO si LOCK.

Imi poate explica si mie cineva cand ar trebui sa il blochez si daca pe auto se blocheaza si el? si ince situatii. Multumesc.

valissan
10th April 2008, 00:49
Your NISSAN is equipped with one of two
4WD systems, auto-lock free-running hubs
or manual-lock free-running hubs.
The auto-lock free-running hub is designed
to allow for automatic 4-wheel drive engagement
when the shift lever is moved to
the 4H or 4L position. If your vehicle is
equipped with this system, follow these operational
cautions:
CAUTION
c The auto-locking hubs will make a
clicking noise when engaging and
disengaging. This is normal.
c Accelerating quickly from a stop after
shifting from 2-wheel drive to
4-wheel drive may not allow engagement
of the auto-locking freerunning
hubs and may cause a clattering
noise. Continued use of the
vehicle with this noise may damage
the hub lock. In such a case, release
the accelerator pedal to reduce the
engine speed or stop the vehicle.
c If the auto-locking hubs make a clattering
noise after shifting from
4-wheel drive to 2-wheel drive, stop
and move the vehicle about 7 to 10
feet (2 to 3 m) in reverse.
c Under extremely cold conditions
[below 5°F (-15°C)], the front axle
shafts may rotate even with the
transfer lever in the 2H position. If
this occurs, the auto-locking hubs
may make a clattering noise. To
avoid this, drive first in 4-wheel drive
to warm up the vehicle and differential
gear oil. Then, shift to 2-wheel
drive.
SD0021
AUTO-LOCK
FREE-RUNNING HUBS
4-16
c In cold weather, it may be necessary
to reduce speed or stop the vehicle
in order to shift from 2-wheel drive to
4-wheel drive.
c When shifting into or out of 4-wheel
drive while driving, do not stop shift
lever movement midway. An incomplete
shift may cause a clattering
noise from the auto-locking hubs.
Continued use of the vehicle with
this noise may damage the hub lock.
Drive in 4-wheel drive to stop the
noise. Shift to 2-wheel drive as described.
4-17
TO SHIFT
TRANSFER CASE:
SHIFT PROCEDURE FOR AUTO-LOCK FREE-RUNNING HUBS
From 2H to 4H
Move the transfer lever to 4H at speeds below 25 MPH (40 km/h). It is not necessary to depress the clutch pedal. Perform
this operation when driving straight.
From 4H to 2H
Move the transfer lever to 2H. This can be done at any speed, and it is not necessary to depress the clutch pedal. Perform
this operation when driving straight.
NOTE:
For 2-wheel drive operation, set the free-running hubs in the disengaged position. AUTO-LOCK hubs will not disengage
until the vehicle is moved about 3 feet (1 m) in the opposite direction of travel:
c When driving forward, stop and move 3 feet (1 m) in reverse.
c When backing up, stop and move 3 feet (1 m) forward, then move the vehicle about 3 feet (1 m) in reverse.
This will allow for better fuel economy, quieter ride and less component wear.
From 4H to 4L or 4L to
4H
1. Stop the vehicle.
2. Depress the clutch pedal.
3. Depress the transfer lever and move it to the desired 4L or 4H position.
From 2H to 4L
1. Stop the vehicle.
2. Depress the clutch pedal.
3. Depress the transfer lever and move it to 4L. Change gears quickly and smoothly.
From 4L to 2H
1. Stop the vehicle.
2. Depress the clutch pedal.
3. Depress the transfer lever and move it to 2H.
NOTE:
Follow the NOTE shown in shifting from 4H to 2H.
4-18
The manual-lock free-running hubs are designed
to allow you to engage or disengage
the front drive shaft to the front wheels.
Before driving, set the free-running hub to
the desired position:
c 2-wheel operation — Turn the knob to
the FREE position.
c 4-wheel operation — Turn the knob to
the LOCK position.
Be certain to align the S mark on the knob
with the c mark on the wheel hub.
CAUTION
c Never drive in 4-wheel drive (4H or
4L) with the free-running hubs in the
FREE position.
c Do not drive your vehicle with the
left and right free-running hub set to
different positions.
c For the first 300 miles (483 km) it is
recommended that you drive in the
2H position with the free-running
hubs set in the LOCK position.
c To ensure proper lubrication of front
drive components, drive in the LOCK
position for at least 10 miles (16 km)
each month.
SD0022
MANUAL-LOCK
FREE-RUNNING HUBS
4-19
TO SHIFT TRANSFER
CASE:
SHIFT PROCEDURE FOR MANUAL-LOCK FREE-RUNNING HUBS
From 2H to 4H
1. Stop the vehicle.
2. Set free-running hubs in the LOCK position.
3. Move the transfer lever to 4H. It is not necessary to depress the clutch pedal.
From 4H to 2H
Move the transfer lever to 2H. This can be done at any speed, and it is not necessary to depress the clutch pedal. Perform
this operation when driving straight.
NOTE:
For 2-wheel drive operation, set the free-running hubs in the FREE position. This will allow for better fuel economy,
quieter ride and less component wear.
From 4H to 4L or 4L to
4H
1. Stop the vehicle.
2. Depress the clutch pedal.
3. Depress the transfer lever and move it to the desired 4L or 4H position.
From 2H to 4L
1. Stop the vehicle.
2. Set free-running hubs in the LOCK position.
3. Depress the clutch pedal.
4. Depress the transfer lever and move it to 4L. Change gears quickly and smoothly.
From 4L to 2H
1. Stop the vehicle.
2. Depress the clutch pedal.
3. Depress the transfer lever and move it to 2H.

valissan
10th April 2008, 01:13
Asa functioneaza lucrul ala, cu mentiunea ca in pozitia AUTO e automat, iar in pozitia LOCK reactioneaza ca un mecanism manual.

NU are nici o legatura cu blocarea diferentialului, cupleaza planetarele din fata cu butucul rotii.

Sfat:
1. Int otdeauna cuplarea se va face din pozitia oprit.Dupa ce ai terminat treaba cu 4x4 si ai adus maneta in pozitia 4x2, obligatoriu rulezi 3-4 metri inapoi, pentru a decupla planetarele. Toate astea pt pozitia AUTO, pt pozitia LOCK planetarele nu se vor decupla indiferent de pozitia manetei de cuplare.

2. 4x4 automat se va cupla inainte de intrarea in noroi sau altceva in care poti ramane impotmolit. In cazul in care te-ai trezit blocat inainte de a apuca sa cuplezi fata, obligatoriu se vor cupla MRL-urile manual(pozitia LOCK) inainte de a cupla restul transmisiei din maneta. Daca nu vei proceda asa risti sa barbieresti danturile din interiorul MRL-ului.

3. Atunci cand iesi in teren greu : paduri , noroaie ,zapada etc. cupleaza MRL-urile in pozitia LOCK cu ajutorul cheiei originale de roti, sau daca nu o ai foloseste o cheie de bujii din aceea de tabla care exista pe la Dacii.

alibotean
10th April 2008, 10:07
Mersi pentru sfaturi, nu stiam ca trebuie sa merg 3m in directie opusa la cuplarea 4x4 sau 4x2 de la maneta de transfer. Am mers weekendul trecut si am cuplat si decuplat fara sa faca asta :) sper ca nu s-a bulit nimic.

Am o nelamurire la toata povestea asta cu AUTO si LOCK. Care este diferenta intre a cupla din maneta de transfer pe 4H sau direct de la roata?

valissan
10th April 2008, 11:36
De la roata nu cuplezi toata transmisia, doar planetarele. Daca ai ramas impotmolit, atunnci cand cuplezi din maneta, se vor invarti planetarele in timp ce rotile din fata raman pe loc. O roata dintata, care se invarte nu se va cupla cu una care sta pe loc sau care are turatie diferita.
Am scris sa mergi inapoi, dupa ce ai decuplat din maneta. Nu ca sa cuplezi, ci ca sa decuplezi planetarele de roti.