Sfat achizitie discovery 3

[AURELPOPA]

Salut! Planuiesc sa-mi schimb santa fe-ul cu un lr3 insa nu sunt decis daca merita. Sunt destul de multumit de Santa fe pe unde am bagat-o. Ideea este ca m-as apuca sa o inalt un pic insa nu gasesc nicaieri accesorii pt ea. Ma gandesc serios sa o schimb cu un discovery 3 dar sunt speriat de costurile de intretinere si de problemele de la land rover.sper ca aici sa primesc o parere cunoscatoare....nu doar ce se aude pe la toate gurile bune. Am santa fe-ul de aproape 2 ani...de la 80k ..acum are 150k si n-am bagat alti bani...doar consumabile...nu doresc sa iau o masina care sa stea mai mult in service... taaaare mi-ar placea un discovery 3... dar voi ramane cu hyundai-ul sa-l modific putin daca nu mi se recomanda despre lr3. Multumesc si sper ca nu am deranjat cu ale mele ganduri.

[sierrafery]

Re: Sfat achizitie discovery 3

 

Salut, nu deranjezi dar ar trebui sa explici ce vrei mai in detaliu...daca vrei sa te bagi in noroaie sau off-road mai vorbim ca tu se pare ca doresti sa schimbi un SUV "4 motion"(zic ei 4x4) cu un veritabil "Off-road vehicle"(nu SUV) care e echipat din fabrica pt off-road cu sisteme avansate pt asa ceva si e la nivel superior in domeniu... stiu ce e Santa Fe ca am unul in curte deci nu se pot baga cele doua vehicule in "aceasi oala". Ceea ce e sigur e ca indiferent de ce noroc ai si poate prinzi un D3 care a fost bine ingrijit fara probleme oricum doar "mentenenta" va fi de cel putin 2 ori mai scumpa ca la Santa Fe care e cum spui de o fiabilitate incredibila, al meu(de fapt a lui nevasta mea) are 375.000 km fara investitii mari in piese... asta in cazul in care vrei ca un D3 sa te tina si nu ai ghinion sa iei unul de la vreun salahor care si el la randul lui l-a luat de la un neghiob nonsalant pe care nu l-a interesat nimic pt ca dai faliment sau ajungi la "spitalu 9" strigand maniacal pe holuri ca D3 e de KKT.

 

P.S. nu stiu la ce te referi cand spui "nu doar ce se aude pe la toate gurile bune", explica pt ca daca vrei sa iti spuna cineva aici in sectiunea LR ca D3 nu e OK atunci nu cauti unde trebuie

 

sau daca vrei vreun D3 la pret de nimic iar nu e bine, unul adevarat arata si costa cam asa: https://www.lroc.ro/forum/10-discovery/13874-il-cheama-lord?start=40#38386

 

Bafta

Editat Noiembrie 5, 2018 de sierrafery

[AlexStrugariu]

Re: Sfat achizitie discovery 3

 

Disco 3 e o masina superba, atat pe sosea cat si pe teren. Nu prea are competitor real (eventul doar Range Rover sau Range Rover Sport).

 

Din pacate, chiar daca iei o masina intretinuta adecvat, doar costurile de mentenanta vor fi mari. Probleme vor aparea oricum si rareori se rezolva ieftin. Deci daca vrei o masina in care sa bagi doar carburant si sa o duci anual la revizie, Disco 3 nu se potriveste. Daca in schimb iti permiti si/ sau consideri ca merita cheltuielile mari de intretinere, e o masina foarte buna.

Editat Noiembrie 5, 2018 de AlexStrugariu

[AURELPOPA]

Re: Sfat achizitie discovery 3

 

Multumesc pentru raspunsul tau sierrafery , este mult mai prietenesc decat imi imaginam. Ma refereream la gurile bune ca fiind cei ca si mine care nu au prea multe informatii clare si isi dau cu parerea. Nu am auzit pana acum ceva concret de la cunoscatori , ceea ce e drept, pana acum nu am pus nicio intrebare...am citit pe forumurile cu discutii asemanatoare. Din nou multumesc.

Nu am reusit sa accesez link-ul atasat. In niciun caz nu caut o oferta ieftina, mai ales pentru marca land rover, stiu ca de obicei pretul reflecta calitatea... m-am mai ars cu alte masini ca sa invat asta.

Pentru ceea ce facem noi, plimbari la munte...urcat pe unele pante cu dificultati mediocre din ce alte filmulete vad, carat diverse de la hornbach...etc imi este ok hyundai clar. Nu m-a lasat niciodata blocat pe undeva chiar si cand am intrat neincrezator putin. Dar mereu am vrut sa ma bag si pe partea aceea noroioasa sau pe drumul acela pe care iti este putin teama. Am avut un samurai micut cu care nu mi-era frica de niciun obstacol ( l-am luat cu suspensii offroad si altele care ma ajutau). Acum avem si un bebelus si avem nevoie de o masina mare . Mai avem si o haita de caini care merg mereu cu noi. Am vazut un discovery 3 si mi se pare clar ca si spatiu ce avem nevoie. Mi-ar placea sa iesim sa ne bagam prin noroaie cu alte masini.

Tot ce am auzit si stiu despre aceasta masina am vazut pe filmulete, review-uri ..n-am urcat niciodata sa vad efectiv diferentele . Nu m-ar deranja neaparat pretul de achizitie si nici faptul ca sunt mai scumpe piesele si intretinerea. Este asa cum spuneai si tu... ce noroc am sa gasesc una buna. Ar fi o problema daca stricaciunile apar mult mai des ca la hyundai de exemplu.

App, vreun service pentru modificari masini offroad inspe N de Bucuresti stiti? Daca este ok, oriu de pana la urma.

Din nou, scuze daca vorbesc prostii, ma informez.

Editat Noiembrie 5, 2018 de AURELPOPA

[AURELPOPA]

Re: Sfat achizitie discovery 3

 

Multumesc pentru raspuns AlexStrugariu. Imi poti da te rog o idee de masura in ceea ce priveste costurile daca stii? Evident ca nu sunt pentru toti aceleasi, dar in ceea ce priveste masina ta .... ca sa-mi fac o idee macar. Sunt probleme legate de piese motor care apar, sau consumabile? Daca te deranjeaza intrebare ...scuze

Salut!

[miklovan]

Re: Sfat achizitie discovery 3

 

In general la Land Rover cu motorul nu ai probleme. Motoarele de 2.7 sunt Ford in 6 cilindri si merg ceas al meu are peste 300k km. Revizia are un cost putin mai ridicat datorita filtrului de motorina care e scump.

La Land Rover te otravesc tot felul de nimicuri: switchul care deschide usa la haion care te lasa cu portbagajul plin cand ti-e lumea mai draga, frana de mana electronica e cu poveste la D3 - am simtit-o recent.

Aaah si Land Rover au cele mai proaste incuietori de usi din istoria auto.

[AURELPOPA]

Re: Sfat achizitie discovery 3

 

Miklovan multumesc! :)))) ... nu suna deloc rau

[teddybear]

Re: Sfat achizitie discovery 3

 

Nu am reusit sa accesez link-ul atasat. In niciun caz nu caut o oferta ieftina, mai ales pentru marca land rover, stiu ca de obicei pretul reflecta calitatea... m-am mai ars cu alte masini ca sa invat asta.

 

Din cauza vitezei probabil, Fery iti pusese un link de pe alt forum, ca exemplu de masina corect intretinuta. E drept, e vorba de un Disco 4: https://forum.club4x4.ro/showthread.php?96430-Land-Rover-Discovery-4-SDVT-3-0-HSE

@AlexStrugariu iti poate spune mai multe despre cat timp a cautat un Disco 3 in mintile lui:dr2

Bafta in cautari!

[AURELPOPA]

Re: Sfat achizitie discovery 3

 

Multumesc teddybear. Oameni misto aici. Daca ma decid la un disco 3, imi puteti recomanda unde as putea sa-l duc la o verificare serioasa?

Credeti ca gasesc pe cineva dispus sa-mi arate un disco 3? Mai mult decat sa panichez pe un tip in parcare cand incercam sa ma tot uit pe la spatele lui ...n-am experienta a ...si ocazionala cascare de ochi cum trece unul pe langa mine :)) as vrea s-o iau pentru cativa ani masina.

Recomandati sa o iau din tara sau de afara ?

Cati km imi recomandati maxim ?

Multumesc

[sean70]

Re: Sfat achizitie discovery 3

 

Avea Marius de la Premium un client care intentiona sa vanda un D3 in mintile lui...

[AlexStrugariu]

Re: Sfat achizitie discovery 3

 

Multumesc pentru raspuns AlexStrugariu. Imi poti da te rog o idee de masura in ceea ce priveste costurile daca stii? Evident ca nu sunt pentru toti aceleasi, dar in ceea ce priveste masina ta .... ca sa-mi fac o idee macar. Sunt probleme legate de piese motor care apar, sau consumabile? Daca te deranjeaza intrebare ...scuze

Salut!

 

Salut! Nu ma deranjeaza niciun fel de intrebare. Scriu in continuare, pe scurt, despre experienta mea cu achizitia si mentinerea unui D3.

Achizitia: primavara trecuta am inceput sa caut Disco 3-uri prin tara, dar ma uitam si in Germania pe site-urile de anunturi. Ma interesa unul cu cutie automata si suspensie pneumatica. Am ajuns sa vad si sa testez 4 masini, 3 in Bucuresti (in 2 drumuri diferite) si 1 in Iasi. Prima pe care am vazut-o in Bucuresti parea foarte OK din anunt (2007, unic proprietar, 145k km, dotata relativ OK). In urma unui test-drive, iarasi parea OK. Ajuns cu masina la verificat la Tiriac Auto (reprezentanta LR), am descoperit ca masina era foarte obosita si avea km dati inapoi. Vanzatorul era de fapt un samsar... Pas... Ma intorc in Iasi si a doua zi verific alta masina de aici (2008, al doilea proprietar, dotata ceva mai bine). In urma test drive-ului, am decis ca nu mai are sens sa o duc la verificat... Pas. Dupa circa o luna, revin in Bucuresti sa mai vad doua masini, ambele bune. Una era un S din 2009 cu 51k km la bord, unic proprietar, dar avea suspensie pe arcuri. Pana la urma am cumparat un S automata cu suspensie pneumatica din 2005 cu 109k km la bord, masina prezentata si pe forumul acesta de-a lungul anilor de catre CristiS. Compresorul de la suspensia pneumatica fusese schimbat recent. Acum masina are 133k km si am facut/ schimbat urmatoarele: un rulment fata (pica la circa 100k km), un burduf planetara, un senzor de uzura placute de frana am dat jos EGR-urile (folosind un blanking kit din UK de la BAS remap; la modelele 2005-2006, Euro 3, nu necesita modificari de soft), schimbat distributia (se schimba la 170k km sau 7 ani) + pompa de ulei (se poate rupe si sa-ti ia motorul dupa ea; se schimba cu modelul nou mai rezistent). Pentru a schimba bujiile incandescente (pt prima data), am ajuns sa dam jos o chiuloasa+ ulterior schimbat garnitura de chiuloasa, rectificat chiulasa (se mai intampla la masinile astea)... Fara kit-ul de distributie si 4 bujii pe care le-am primit de la Cristi cand am cumparat masina, acestea au costat putin peste 7000 ron. Recent am schimbat placutele de frana pe fata - 250 ron Brembo (nu te astepta sa tina mai mult de 30-40k km un set) si uleiurile din cutia de viteze, cutia de transfer si diferentiale (2200 ron). LR recomanda schimbul acestor uleiuri la 240k km, dar ZF (producatorul cutiei auto) recomanda la 80-120 k km. Nu cred ca ajung prea multe cutii la 240 k km cu uleiul original. O revizie costa circa 800-900 ron. Eu o fac la fiecare 10.000 km. Se mai recomanda servisarea regulata (la 2-3 ani) a compresorului de la suspensie (schimbat silicagelul cel putin) si a franei de parcare (EPB). Deci acestea sunt doar costuri de mentenanta. Dupa cum zice si @miklovan, masinile astea mai au diverse chichite care-ti pot complica uneori viata. In februarie, mi s-a aprins pomul de craciun in bord, suspensia s-a coborat complet (eram pe tampoane). Motivul? Pai 2 becuri de frana arse. Le-am schimbat si masina si-a revenit :) Acelasi lucru se poate intampla si de la switch-ul pedalei de frana. E bine sa te documentezi in privinta acestei masini, pentru a nu intra in panica cand se intampla astfel de lucruri. In orice caz, cel putin componente precum compresorul, pernele de aer, convertizorul de cuplu al cutiei auto ar trebui considerate din start consumabile, pentru a fi cat mai impacat.

 

Sfatul meu cu achizitia: vorbeste cu oamenii de aici si vezi ce masini bune sunt de vanzare. Ai rabdare. Multe chilipiruri vor ajunge sa te coste o avere de fapt... Orice masina te intereseaza, verific-o intai in service-urile specializate LR, fie reprezentanta fie cele 2 service-uri independente specializate din Bucuresti.

 

Mai jos redau din, dintr-un forum strain, principalele probleme cunoscute ale acestor masini si cateva sfaturi. Bafta cu achizitia!

 

 

- Buy on condition rather than age or mileage. There are plenty of well looked after D3's with 150,000, 200,000 or more miles on the clock and on their original engines.

 

3) Evidence of service history / money being spent is vital - these vehicles require preventative maintenance. A good 'tell tale' for a vehicle run on a shoestring budget is to look at the tyres. Are they a reputable make and good tread left? Good sign. Big stack of invoices? Good sign.

 

4) These are heavy vehicles - suspension components, bushes, and wheel bearings wear out, as do differentials and prop-shaft centre bearings. When replacing wheel bearings - you want Timken / OEM - nothing else will do.

 

5) Brakes take a hammering too. Check the disks and pads for excessive wear.

 

6) The EGR valves generally fail in time. They can be replaced, and there are other cheaper solutions available that cannot be officially sanctioned.

 

7) The suspension compressor is a weak point. Make sure the suspension raises and lowers efficiently, with no noises, and no error messages on the dashboard. Ideally, it will have been replaced by the uprated AMK version.

 

8 ) Battery and alternator usually need replacing at about 8 years old. A common sign that the battery is getting weak is the message "special programs not available" appearing temporarily after starting up. When the alternator goes, it does so rapidly and with smoke and if not disconnected quickly will also kill the battery.

 

9) Cambelt and fuel pump belt need changing at 7 years / 105K miles. The body does *not* need to come off to replace the belts, though it's still an expensive job (circa £600 at an independent).

 

10) Changing the oil pump at the same time as the belts is advisable on the 2.7 engine. There have been instances of the lug that holds the tensioner (part of the oil pump casting) snapping off and wrecking engines, and the redesigned pump appears to be much strengthened in this area.

 

11) Getting the gearbox oil changed / flushed is advisable at around 80K miles. This is not a standard service item, so you'll need to arrange to get it done separately. Changing the gearbox oil filter is much harder than just changing the oil.

 

12) Check the MOT history (online) on any vehicle you are thinking of buying - it will tell you a lot. Same advisories ignored for a couple of years in a row?

 

13) The electronic parking brake can fail, and it's expensive when it does. There is an emergency release accessible from inside the cabin - a wire loop that is accessed from under the trim below the handbrake release switch.

 

14) A warranty is a good idea if you can stretch to it. Lots are available, and it's worth asking for experiences of members of this group.

 

15) an IID Tool is worth buying to do your own diagnostic work. Other tools can do similar jobs, including iCarsoft i930, but doesn't offer as many features.

 

16) A remote FBH controller is worth its weight in gold to those that have them. The FBH is a 'fuel burning heater' and kicks in below 5 Celsius to warm the engine faster on cold days. It is the thing that smells and smokes from the front left of the D3 and always worries people in the winter. A remote control turns it into a useful parking heater.

 

17) There was a recall on the detachable tow bar. Take it to Land Rover to get it checked out. There was also a recall regarding a vacuum pipe (top left of the engine standing at the front looking to the rear of the D3) - if you don't have a strange looking 'loop' arrangement, get it checked out by Land Rover.

 

18) The locking wheel bolts sometimes sheer off - replace them with standard ones. The supplied wheel brace is considered inadequate for removing the bolts if they have ever been tightened with an air wrench. Get a proper one prior to actually needing it!

 

19) Sometimes the central locking plays up, due to a crummy connection on the passenger side under the plastic sill. It can be soldered up for a permanent fix.

 

20) The cable that releases the rear tailgate sometimes breaks, as does the microswitch in the handle - awkward to repair when it goes. Symptoms are the tailgate not opening and / or a clicking noise but not opening. Not expensive to fix, but awkward as hell.

 

21) Shudder or surging in the acceleration at about 2,000 rpm usually means the torque converter is failing - an oil flush or Dr Tranny can give it a bit more life. New torque converter usually runs to about £1200 at an independent.

 

22a) There were some instances of crank bearings spinning and wrecking engines. If that happens to you, go talk to Land Rover, as they had a programme to deal with this, depending on conditions being met. As far as it known, there is no way to repair engines with spun crank bearings. It is commonly believed that oil changes more frequently than recommended with a high quality fully synthetic oil, plus good quality fuel that creates less soot, can reduce the chances of this happening.

 

22b) There have been reported instances of cranks failing catastrophically and physically breaking into two parts in both D3 and D4 running the TDV6 and SDV6 diesel engines. There have been reports of this happening at low mileage (40,000) and high mileage (160,000+). There is no consensus on what causes this to happen.

 

23) The turbo actuator can stick causing very poor acceleration at slow speeds. Easy enough to free up, if fiddly. Access is through the left side front wheel arch once the plastics are removed.

 

24) The MAP sensor has a tendency to clog up. Easy to remove and clean, and there is a modified part with a larger port available that is less prone to clogging. It's on the top of the engine, under the plastic cover, pretty much in the middle.

 

25) The long intercooler pipe has a tendency to split near the top of the engine compartment on the left as you stand in front of the engine, causing almost total loss of performance, and loads of smoke. Easy DIY to replace with the lower clip accessible through a panel in the right side wheel arch, and should possibly be considered preventative maintenance once over about 7 or 8 years of age.

 

28) Fuel economy is between 22 and 32 MPG depending on usage. These are not 'green' vehicles - and that's not why you're buying it!

 

29) Don't let just any old mechanic work on your D3. These are specialised machines and you need to know what you're doing if you want to minimise the costs - rather than just throwing parts at it. Take it to a recognised specialist and save yourself a lot of grief.

 

30) The centre console Fridge was thought to be standard on HSE's in 2007 but not necessarily present in 2008 onwards. They can be retrofitted :-)

 

31) The crossover pipe that links one bank of cylinders to the turbo on the other side of the engine can fail - most usually due to the centre bracket not being refitted after work on the gearbox causing vibration and cracking. It can be replaced without taking the body off, but it is very awkward, and the pipe itself is expensive. Symptoms are blowing noises, smells, and lack of power.

 

32) The fuel injectors can't be serviced, and they're roughly £200 each just for the part - keep in mind you have 6 of them! It's worth using good fuel and / or using injector cleaner every now and then to keep them in good shape.

 

33) The glow plugs can fail - symptom being difficult starting, smoke on starting, or rough running for a while after starting. You might not notice until 3 of the 6 have failed. They have a tendency to snap on removal, needing the heads to be taken off. A workaround is to fit a remote FBH controller and pre-heat the engine prior to starting. If you do embark on having them replaced, use a specialist in these engines with a vibrating torque wrench designed to remove glow plugs.

 

34) The black plastic trim does fade. Several people swear by using smooth peanut butter to restore the colour. Autoglym also make some good stuff for this.

 

35) The elements in the heated windscreen are fragile and can be broken by stone chips. There is no way to repair them once broken, other than a windscreen replacement. This shows itself as icy streaks when you defrost in the winter.

 

36) The winch mechanism to lower the spare wheel sometimes jams up. Make it part of your routine to test it / loosen it from time to time. Don't wait until you need it before discovering that it is seized up.

 

37) Some people who have needed replacement engines have successfully fitted the 2.7 diesel engine out of a Jaguar. This is obviously a risky proposition as it is unclear just how much of the internals are different / similar or modified for Land Rover versus Jaguar.

 

38) Slight loss of coolant can be due to the header tank leaking, or the cap needing replacing. You need the pink/red OAT coolant.

 

39) Difficulty engaging Drive, or slipping out of Drive (auto box) is often due to seized or worn bushes in the selector mechanism under the D3. Moderately easy DIY fix.

 

40) Leaking from the sunroof into the interior is often caused by blocked / clogged sunroof drains. These can be cleared with careful use of a straightened metal coat hanger, others have used strimmer wire.

 

41) The leather on the steering wheel is not the most robust in the world!

 

42) Airbag warning lights can sometimes be caused by the connector under the seat working loose. Tightening the retaining bolt can often solve the problem.

 

43) It is possible to retrofit a reversing camera, but it requires the addition of a new GFIV interface module, as well as the physical hardware.

 

44) Older D3's, without the 4x4 info screen or clock on the dashboard, can have these features enabled through coding / module updating. You can do this yourself with an IID Tool, or several members of this group can do it for you, for a fee.

 

45) Loads of useful information can be obtained from Land Rover's Topix service. This is available online, and registration is free. All you need is the VIN number, once registered.

 

46) The default code to pair your Bluetooth phone to your D3 is 2121.

 

47) Please don't ask about adding two stroke oil to the fuel, terra clean or similar. The short version is that there is no consensus on whether these are good / bad / indifferent, and threads on these subjects usually turn into eulogies and bun fights in equal measure :-) Do your own research, and make your own judgement call on these subjects.

 

48) It's OK if you want to use your D3 to tow a horse box, cross fields, mountains or rivers, and get it caked in mud, and equally OK if you want it to be showroom perfect, waxed up, big wheels, and as adventurous as it gets is going to Tesco. Fit whatever wheels you like to it, and upgrade it to D4 styling if you wish. Everyone welcome here. We won't judge you, but we might offer opinions :-)

 

49) The navigation disc is in a drive under the passenger seat, behind a cover. It can be updated to newer mapping data, and using eBay or searching via Google is the most cost effective way to get a newer disc.

 

50) Fuel leaking out when you've brimmed the tank ? Probably rodent damage to the breather plastics on the top of the tank. For unknown reasons, they get chewed away on the same 90 degree bend. A big job (new fuel tank and over a grand) at a main dealer, though some have repaired with "tiger seal" and other DIY fixes to good effect.

 

51) The inlet manifolds in the 3.0 TDV6 are made of plastic, and are known to become brittle and crack / leak. There are two of them on the engine, and when one goes, the other usually isn't far behind. Can be expensive to repair at a main dealers (£1,000+) and not unusual for parts to be on back order. Beware engine warning lights on D4's as they can commonly point to this fault.

Editat Noiembrie 6, 2018 de AlexStrugariu

[SkanderV]

Re: Sfat achizitie discovery 3

 

Cred ca au venit colegii cu foarte multe informatii pentru tine, mai adaug doar ca daca ai de vazut o masina prin Bucuresti te pot ajuta cu testerul.

 

Putem verifica pe loc cat de reali sunt km masinii plus o diagnoza rapida.

Tot e cel mai bine sa mergi si la un service specializat, dar macar facem un screening initial sa zic asa

[AURELPOPA]

Re: Sfat achizitie discovery 3

 

Multumesc AlexStrugariu pentru informatii. Nu este atat de rau precum imi imaginam cu cheltuielile. Consider ca merita atat cat asta vrei de la o masina si daca te poti baza pe ea. Observ...este altceva cu astfel de masini. Rumeg la toate informatiile de mai sus.

Foarte multe am aflat aici pe forum .

M-am decis....sper sa vand cat mai repede masina mea si sa umblu la pusculita. O sa-mi iau sper pana la sfarsitul anului .

Multumesc din nou! Jos palaria...

[AURELPOPA]

Re: Sfat achizitie discovery 3

 

Mi-ar fi extrem de folositor SkanderV... nici n-as sti de unde sa incep sa ma uit

[Ruloteadi]

Salut,

sunt proaspatul proprietar al unui Discovery 3 , 2,7 , din 2005.... visam la aceasta masina dar.... nu indrazneam...

La insistentele fiului meu , venit in vacanta din UK, unde este stabilit si are un service auto micut.... am mers sa vizionam cateva masini,,,, ultima pe lista a fost Discovery III ... de care m-am si ne-am indragostit pe loc( pina atunci am condus M.B. Vito 112 cdi...

Acum ca orice masina la mana a doua ... mici probleme ... pe unele le-a rezolvat fiul meu..., dar a fost nevoit sa se intoarca in UK... si eu am ramas cu urmatoarele probleme ...

1. frana de mana nu functioneaza ... martorul rosu si cel galben , aprinse in bord

2. senzorul care citeste vitezele si comanda oglinzile la mersul inapoi , trebuie inlocuit...

... acum , imi puteti indica un garaj decent ca si preturi... dealerul din Ploiesti , pentru a rezolva aceaste probleme mi-a cerut o caruta de bani ... pretul pieselor la ei fiind umflat foarte mult + mecanici incompetenti....pentru fiecare reparatie facand diagnoza ! Precizez ca , costul pieselor nu face nici macar 15% in UK cu transport cu tot...

De aceea va solicit sprijinul in a ma indruma catre un service cu oameni priceputi ... daca aveti stire despre asa ceva .

Cu deosebita recunostinta ...

Adi Coman.

[teddybear]

Utilizarea diagnozei nu este semn de incompetenta, din contra!

In alta ordine de idei, adu masina la Bucuresti, sunt doua service-uri foarte bune, in afara de reprezentanta: unul pe langa Obor, celalalt pe Calarasi... le gasesti usor cu Google!

[Ruloteadi]

... dar tu platesti doua zile la rand aceeasi diagnoza doar de dragul de a baga bani in buzunarul unora ? ... asta la aceeasi reprezentanta ! Un mecanic bun nu ai ?