OPEL FRONTERA

[thunder rock]

Imi cer scuze pentru postul in limba engleza dar mi se pare o descriere "la obiect" cu informatii gen motorizare ampatamente,cupluri etc

 

 

General Motors Frontera 1996.

 

The Frontera Sport (SWB) is a small 4WD made by IBC England (read: Isuzu - General Motors / Vauxhall). The Frontera's Australian release came at the Sydney Motor Show in October 1995 although it has been on sale in Europe since 1991.

 

Power is by GM's Australian 2-litre Family-2 engine, as used in the late, ill-starred Camira. The manufacturer's specifications indicate that maximum torque is developed at a quite low 2800rpm; good flexibility is important in the rough. (Note that it has only 2 valves per cylinder. Engines with 4 valves per cylinder often develop maximum torque at higher revs than is desirable.)

 

The Frontera has a proper chassis and is being pushed as a "serious", even "macho" 4x4.

 

It is interesting to compare the figures for the Jackaroo's 3.2L V6 4v/cyl with the Frontera's 2L 4cyl 2v/cyl:

 

3.2L V6: power: 130kW at 5200rpm, torque: 260Nm at 3750rpm

2L 4: power: 85kW at 5200rpm, torque: 172Nm at 2800rpm

 

The V6 delivers just 50% more power and torque, but is newer, more complex, and 60% larger, and that torque comes in higher - give me one and a half of the old Family-2's please.

 

Isuzu - General Motors Frontera Sport 1997 model.

Short Wheel Base Sport

 

* SWB, 4 seats, 3 door

* loa: 4192mm, width: 1780mm (body), height: 1721mm, weight: 1685kg (unladen)

* GVM: 2200kg, towing: 750kg (unbraked)

* approach: 41, departure: 29, ramp-over:155

* turning radius: 5.4m

* "GM-Holden Family 2" 1998cc petrol 4cyl Efi 2v/cyl sohc

* bore: 86mm, stroke: 86mm, c.r.: 10.0:1

* power: 85kW at 5200rpm, torque: 172Nm at 2800rpm

* transmission: 5m, part-time 4WD, rear LSD

* suspension: indep'-torsion-bar/beam-coil, brakes: disc/disc (handbrake: rear-drums)

* tyres: 235R70-16, fuel-tank: 80L

* Note: `air-top' removable panel and rear widows. Air-conditioning standard.

* $36,650 (Aus) [1996]

 

* U.K. :-

o 2.0i as above

o 2499cc, diesel, turbo, intercooled, 2-valve/cyl, cr 21:1

o 85kW @ 3600rpm, 260Nm at 1800rpm

o Sport 2.0i: stg 12762, 14995 (inc VAT), 15470 (delivered)

Sport 2.5TDS: stg 14426, 16950 (inc VAT), 17425 (del')

Sport S 2.0i: stg 13519, 15885 (inc VAT), 16360 (del')

Sport S 2.5TDS: stg 15187, 17845 (inc VAT), 18320 (del') [1997]

[niku iorga]

:g mai baga...ca pe forumurile din Ro, chiar de profil, sunt slabutze info despre masinile Frontera.

Ce mai am o sa bag si eu...din pacate, tot in english.

[niku iorga]

suspesions lift

 

Pt cei interesati : :D

 

Frontera A leaf sprung rear – 2” to 3” lift

 

Preparation

WD40 or Plus Gas release agent sprayed onto all nuts, bolts and fittings at least a couple of times before starting

 

Give the whole underside of the car a very thorough jet washing a few days before starting – doesn’t help the task but much nicer if you don’t get loads of mud and dirt falling your eyes when your underneath!

 

Identify where you want to measure the ride height, front and rear from. I took from ground to middle of wheel arch – its not that accurate but its only being used as a comparison. For the record:

 

Tools

Hydraulic Trolley Jack – having 2 of these available is much better

Frontera’s standard bottle jack or hydraulic version

Pair of Axle Stands

Mole grips

Hammer

Large Screwdriver

12mm,14mm,17mm,19mm & 22mm Spanners – combination sets are best as you get a ring end and its cranked

12mm,14mm, 17mm,19mm & 27mm Sockets – no less than ½” drive

½” drive Ratchet

Extended handle ½” drive wrench – Halfords do a brilliant wheel wrench, ½” drive with 2 double ended sockets for different sizes. Extension handle slides out as required and much better than standard wheel brace!

 

 

Parts required

 

Extended rear spring hangers / shackles (they all quote between 11/2” to 2” lift dependant on springs and bushes etc)

 

Frontera Owners Group sourced – in my case (3” lift)

 

Or Offroad Overload: http://www.offroadoverload.com/home/home.aspx

 

Or eBay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FRONTERA-LIFT-KIT ... dZViewItem

 

Or Calimini in US: http://www.pureisuzu.com/lift_shackles1.htm

 

Or Darlington Offroad in US:

 

http://www.darlington-off-road.bigstep. ... RID=310461

 

Or LA Supertrux in UK: http://www.supertrux.com/acatalog/index.html

 

Replacement Gas Shocks – Explorer ProComp http://www.explorerprocomp.co.uk/ for ES3000. Order additional length ie: +2” on the rear and this will give increased articulation as well as ride height. Its not critical on front as whatever is gained on height is ultimately lost in articulation if adjusting torsion bars only.

 

Replacement rear spring and shackle bushes. Rubber is better for off roading (more flex) and a lot easier to fit! Polyurethane are available also fro Explorer ProComp but a lot harder to fit with new shackles. I went for a combination of rubber at frame end and poly’s on spring eyes simply because it was easier.

 

Other bits: Jack up and take wheels off before you tackle the lift. Inspect top and bottom ball joints, brake pads, discs and rear brakes. If any are worn buy some replacements, now is an ideal time to do these as well!!

 

Lifting the rear (do this first as this is a “fixed” amount of lift –you can always adjust the front to suit, not the other way round)

 

Jack the car up as high as possible and sit securely on axle stands – the higher the better as it gives you more room to maneuver under the car. Get both rear wheels off and well out of the way.

 

Before you start the dismantling process, slide the exhaust off the rear and middle rubbers and drop down – it can be done without this but again it a lot easier in the long run.

 

Here’s what the original rear shackles looked like, remove the 22mm nuts. This side is a separate plate which can now be removed.

 

Making sure that you have the trolley jack supporting the rear axle, push out the other side of the shackle (the bolts are retained on the other side of the plate and do not have bolt heads that require holding to undo.

 

Repeat on the other side. It is much easier is you repeat each step side for side as you go as this keeps axle twist to a minimum and hence limits any damage to rear brake compensator assembly and/or handbrake cables.

 

Next remove old rear shocks at top, they are by 17mm or 19mm nut dependant on model (so I’m told, mine were 19mm). Repeat on other side and then lower rear axle as far as possible without straining handbrake cables.

 

 

Now its time to fit the new shackles. As these are now fixed both sides it means that the gap is fixed, with new bushes you will find these do not just slip in place!

 

Start with body/frame end by installing the bushes with a suitable amount of the correct grease (rubber or poly). If you cannot slide the shackle over these due to the width a trick I used was to hold 2 engineers rules either side of the bushes and then taking the free ends holding these together forming a tapered shape towards the bushes, then with a little force, slide the shackles down this taper until approximately over the bushes. Then slide out the rules.

 

Using a long screwdriver through the shackle and bush eyes, line up the holes. The bolting arrangement will depend on the type of shackles but I had bolts with 27mm heads with nyloc nuts. Whatever the size, do these up so they just start to grip the bushes – these will be fully tightened once back on the ground. Again, repeat other side.

 

You will probably then find that despite the axle being fully lowered the gap between the body and spring eye will be too close to attempt to fit the other end of the shackle. Here you can use the cars original jack to push these apart. There is a nice flange and bolt to locate the top end and stop it slipping – it holds the tank on the car.

 

Then in a similar manner to the top, fit the lower bolts – repeat on other side. Then fit the replacement rear shocks and tighten just enough to touch the bushes.

 

Refit the exhaust to its hanger rubbers and replace the wheels. Drop to the ground and tighten everything up. Now its ready to measure…..in my case now up to 35 ¾”.

 

Lifting the front.

Jack the front up and sit securely on axle stands as per the rear. Remove road wheels and then lower shock mounts. These are the same as the rear fitment ie; eyelet type and in my case a 17mm nut.

 

Disconnect the upper mounting this is an upright thread bolt with a 14mm not securing to the frame. This is where you may get problems as when shocks are worn it becomes very easy for the whole shock damper rod to turn and therefore you can’t get the nut off!

 

Use mole grips on the top of the rod – don’t worry about damage as they are being replaced, and hold these whilst turning the nut with a spanner. Replace with new shocks, you can just about see the mounting here.

 

Note that its worthwhile replacing the shocks first as these may have an impact on ride height, so once you drop it back down to measure you need to have the final settings right.

 

Now for the real part of the lift. Look under the side of the car about half way along, Follow the long bar that leads from the front suspension to make this easier to find – this is the torsion bar.

 

This nut is 27mm and rotates a fitting on the end of this bar closer or further from the chassis and provides changes in ride height. Clockwise to raise and anti-clockwise to lower height, always turn both sides the same amount, at least to start with and you discover any differences between sides once back on its wheels. It is easier to keep the car jacked up for this bit although not essential. If these are rusted in anyway or just full of dirt the will be very hard to move so this is where you need you extended ½” drive wrench.

 

Before you start make sure that you mark the nut and the frame with tippex or paint so that you know where you started from.

 

You need to turn this a lot! Its approximately 4 turns per inch, I initially went for 10 turns to = 2.5”. But it didn’t work out like that, once back on the ground it only equaled 2” (just). I ended up using another 7 or 8 (cant quire remember), a turn at a time and even then I only got 2 ¾”.

 

 

However once I drove it I realized there was no way I could leave it like that! It was extremely bouncy at the front end, so much so it was overcoming the damping force on the new gas shocks; it also had visible negative front camber.

 

I was expecting this from previous research and discussion, but not so pronounced. So I reverted to lowering back down slightly, doing this a turn at a time it didn’t really start to drop until after 5 turns anti-clockwise so I did another one for luck.

 

I drove the car around again and it was almost back to normal ride quality and minimal negative camber, so this shouldn’t affect tyre wear either. After several days I have re-measured everything and I’ve got just under 3” at back and 2” at the front with what I think looks quite a nice slight nose down attitude!

 

 

Tips on front lift

 

The amount of height you will get from the torsion bars will depend on: age and “sag” ie; wear or torsion bars, the initial fitting of the adjustable end of the torsion bar when it left the factory (sometimes you can run out of thread to adjust), front shocks and age of car – later ones with coli sprung rear normally have more scope.

 

But regardless of this +2” is about as much as you want to go if you don’t modify anything else as the negative camber becomes excessive and as I found with mine the additional height had actually taken so much out of the “droop” that there was none left meaning when it rebounded over a bump the car was already hitting the upper bump stops and so front wheels were skipping off the ground!

 

This is because the upper arm only has a limited amount of “droop” travel due to the design. Additional modifications will be required, if your stock set up will give additional ride height increase the camber can be reset to normal by shims between the upper arm mounting and frame.

 

Alternatively you can purchase longer upper arms from Calmini in the US (web site as above) but they normally come in a quite expensive kit, these will give scope for more lift, get some of the droop back and correct the camber.

 

Another method is by mounting the upper ball joint below the upper arm fixing not above, this is frowned upon by some but is a quick and easy way to get some “droop” and camber back, this can also be supplemented by modifying the upper bump stops. This is quite common modification in the US and Calmini and others even supply spacers to increase this even more.

 

Example of how to do this via. http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.ht ... acer_Howto

 

The main concerns are around the potential for the camber (and castor) angles to change during this ball joint “flip”, but remember the lift will affect these anyway, whether 2” or ½”, in addition the increased height dramatically increases the centre of gravity and hence the amount of lean in corners and potential to roll over easier.

 

Remember any modification to standard WILL change many characteristics of your car and WILL affect how it drives from “feel” to MPG, tyre wear etc; It will also have an impact on how long components last, for example wheel bearings, front driveshaft gaiters, front drive shaft couplings, ball joints, propshaft joints etc etc etc

 

ALWAYS ADJUST YOUR DRIVING STYLE TO SUIT AND HAVE TRACKING ETC; CHECKED AFTER MODIFICATIONS.

 

ANY MODIFICATIONS MAY AFFECT YOUR INSURANCE VALIDITY AND/OR COST PLEASE CHECK WITH YOUR BROKER BEFORE HAND.

 

Lastly, I believe that the £100 or so it has cost me was the best money I have ever spent, on anything! I went to my local Pay and Play event the weekend after completion and the ability was dramatically improved and its looks a lot better than my mates RR! What do you think?

 

 

 

 

Sursa : http://www.fronteraowners.co.uk/suspension_lift.htm

 

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[thunder rock]

Si cate ceva referitor la cauciucuri...din aceeasi sursa ...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pre 1995 vehicles

 

 

 

Size

 

Nominal Diameter (inches)

225/75R15

 

28.29

255/75R15

 

30.06

1995 to 98 vehicles

 

 

 

Size

 

Nominal Diameter (inches)

235/70R16

 

28.95

255/65R16

 

29.05

Post 1998 vehicles

 

 

 

Size

 

Nominal Diameter (inches)

245/70R16

 

29.5

 

 

 

Some Available Tyre Sizes

 

 

 

Size

 

Nominal Diameter (inches)

235/75/15

 

28.88

225/75/16

 

29.29

265/70/15

 

29.61

255/70/16

 

30.06

245/75/16

 

30.47

265/70/16

 

30.61

265/70/17

 

31.61

265/75/16

 

31.65

235/85/16

 

31.73

285/70/17

 

32.71

305/70/16

 

32.81

285/75/16

 

32.83

255/85/16

 

33.07

315/75/16

 

34.6

 

 

 

Note: These are their theoretical sizes and will differ slightly from the manufactured size and between Makes, this should be checked in their trade literature.

Tyres greater than 31 inches in diameter will require either a suspension lift or a body lift or both.

[thunder rock]

http://www.fronteraowners.co.uk/info/gearbox.htm

 

 

 

asta i chiar o chestie beton :wink:

[thunder rock]

Si asa cum ii sta bine unei sectiuni iata si cum se joaca cehii in noroi...

 

 

 

 

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/celcearestaff/th_drahany2007.jpg[/url]

[niku iorga]

in curtea scolii :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lIPZq7mSj0

[gepetto]

in curtea scolii :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1lIPZq7mSj0

Nu mai ai nevoie de masina ?

[niku iorga]

asta-i slabutz, dar a fost singura faza filmata :grin:

[kato]

de ce hacuiesti frate masina aia ?sau terminat noroaiele?

[thunder rock]

E pe cale de a pleca de la tine bag sama'......ce ti-a facut man?...ia chevy-ul ptr asa ceva....

[niku iorga]

joaca asta, care nu e singura, e filmata in vara, chiar inainte sa fac delta si porma maramuresul... :dr1 masina a fost ok si e si acum, fara sa-mi creeze probleme sau sa mai bag vre-un leut in ea.

[thunder rock]

Inca una d'asta si sa vezi ce turnura nedorita vor lua banutii

[thunder rock]

Ce ziceti de asta? apropos asa ceva se poate aduce sau se poate face? si oare in ce bani?

 

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/celcearestaff/IMG_2935_500.jpg

 

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/celcearestaff/IMG_3642_499.jpg

 

 

 

ARB ul desigur :grin:

 

 

 

A si niku pune si tu o poza cu troliul in bot ca nush cum ar da

[suzuker]

aia nu e ARB. Oricum, se poate face ceva asmanator si poate chiar mai misto. Ia legatura cu cfantana si ai sa vezi :wink:

[niku iorga]

o sa caut diseara...dak nu ii fac, si mai dau si ceva detalii .. oricum, placa d troliu a fost facuta de maestrii tuparu&ionut fara a afecta bulbarul care, mai mult, a fost si intarit cu ocazia asta.

Ca asta din poze va ajunge si a mea....prelata si kit de inaltare am gasit, mai trebuie "cascavalul" :-x ...pana-n vara sper sa fie gata.

[niku iorga]

ce-am gasit recent, foto facute chiar pe 31.12.a.c, prin spatele curtii de la Nehoiu (ma plictiseam) :twisted: nu sunt prea clare, dar totusi se vede ca troliul a fost montat de o mana de artist :P bara e la locul ei, putin decupata cat sa intre placa pt troliu, care e prinsa atat in bulbar, cat si in sasiu..

[niku iorga]

nici aici nu se vede prea bine troliul :grin:

[cfantana]

Nicule ai pierdut garantia la troliu dapa ce-am vazut in ultima poza :ha:

 

Ar trebui din cand in cand sa-l dam jos si sa-l gresam,dupa cateva scufundari de alea se umple cu noroi si se face o marmeleda in el....

[niku iorga]

Nicule ai pierdut garantia la troliu dapa ce-am vazut in ultima poza :ha:

 

Ar trebui din cand in cand sa-l dam jos si sa-l gresam,dupa cateva scufundari de alea se umple cu noroi si se face o marmeleda in el....

 

asa o sa facem! :banana

 

nu l-am probat ieri, sper sa mai mearga...din canalul ala m-a scos o vitara, dar ulterior am fost chit (reciprocitate) :P

[thunder rock]

Da e klar...m-am uitat atent si nu era troliu in poza aia :-P

 

 

 

Ai rezolvat-o cu'' Fata"? ai 4wd aq sau tot 2x4 mergi?

[niku iorga]

am rezolvat "fatza"...satelitii din diferentialul fata erau praf (la propriu)...am gasit undeva in ploiesti.

@app....tupare, nu cred ca se face clisa in troliu, ca a avut parte de tratament special, la Lipoveanu&co

[cfantana]

Pai asa te vreau,sa ai grija de el :grin:

[thunder rock]

asa ceva aduce cineva?

 

 

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u230/celcearestaff/FronteraAfterburnerSmall.jpg

[niku iorga]

Re: OPEL FRONTERA

 

hm...daca vrei sa o scoti in teren, e riscant sa dai banii pe asa ceva ....eu le am crapate pe amandoua pe spate...si ma bate gandul sa-mi fac niste aparatori..

si am promis o poza cu troliul....am gasit una de la Sibiu